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Friends beware. It turns out that Nellu and I are the type of people who, when you casually suggest we visit, will likely take you up on that offer. (Our friends who just moved to South Korea, you’ve been warned.) Over the last month of our trip, we visited more than a dozen friends over Europe. Some were old friends and some were new. But it was the perfect way to end the trip of a lifetime…

Sweet Caroline — Berlin

I remember the first time we met Caroline. Nellu and I had just taken the overnight bus from Cape Town to Johannesburg, enduring hours of entertainment like the best music videos of Brandy and Celine Dion. (There are no earbuds on the planet that could block that out.) We had taken the train “where the robbers get robbed” to the airport, where we got a free pick up from the hotel we’d stay with for a night as a part of our G Adventures overland trek to Nairobi. We were tired and after finally connecting with the hotel manager/driver, we loaded into the back of a minivan. But we’d wait for one more passenger. This turned out to be Caroline.

It’s always a little bit awkward meeting people that you know you will be spending the next month with. Will I like them? Will they like me? Will we be able to tolerate each other’s company for weeks? Caroline didn’t say much on that car ride to the hotel but over our 28-day trip, we got to know her well. She’s one of those people who is generally wonderful to be around. She interested and interesting and laughs a lot with this genuine, contagious laugh that draw you in.

Berlin, Germany, traffic lights

Nellu compiled this photo of the Berlin walk signs. I think the little man looks like he’s in a barbershop quartet.

Berlin won me over but I’m sure a large part of that had to do with Caroline. We booked a place in her neighborhood and met up with her often during our brief stay. She took us to Tempelhof airfield, where we got stuck in the rain.

Nellu Mazilu, Tempelhof, Berlin Germany

We got stuck in the rain during our visit to Tempelhof field. But as Caroline and Nellu demonstrate, only our backsides got wet.

She gave us a driving tour of downtown Berlin, showing us where Angela Merkel lives, and took us to a flea market and brunch.

Nellu helped her carry her new mattress up to her apartment. It was folded into the back of her VW Golf. (I include this detail because 1) they use mattresses that fold up in Germany and 2) I love that as a Berliner, Caroline drives a VW Golf. It fits her.)

Caroline also cooked dinner for us. It was so excitingly normal. We felt like we could have lived there. Maybe someday we will.

Eating Danish Danish with the Queen – Copenhagen

Denmark, Copenhagen, Nyhavn Canal

Nyhavn Canal, Copenhagen.

Line (pronounced Leena) was also on our Africa trip. She was on a similar extended adventure, traveling with her friend Kristine over several months and continents.

Line has a worldly sophistication unusual for someone in her early 20s. She lived in South Africa at some point and on the long truckbus rides across southeastern Africa, she attempted to school us in the art of the click constant present in Xhosa language.

She also has easy-going nature that hides any fatigue she may have with English-speakers pronouncing her name as if they were referring to a long, narrow mark.

We had originally hoped all of us—Caroline, Line, Kristine, Nellu and I—would be able to get together in Copenhagen but we just couldn’t get the dates to work out.

We were thankful to be able to connect with Line. “I forgot that you haven’t gone home yet,” she said meeting us.  It was true. We were still wearing the same clothes she’d seen us in three months earlier in Africa. Line,  of course, rocked that effortless style that Danes seem to acquire as a birthright.

ROKOKO-MANIA, Design Museum Danmark, Copenhagen, Denmark

Dress made out of straws one of the ROKOKO-MANIA exhibits at Design Museum Danmark. (That’s not a typo.)

(Seriously, Copenhagen looks like a showroom for Design Within Reach with everyone riding around on bicycles. It’s  just so devastatingly chic and civilized.)

One item high up on our list of things to try in Denmark: danish. That’s right, Line took us out for Danish danish. And they were delicious.

Danish, danish, Denmark, Copenhagen, Nellu Mazilu

Line takes us for some delicious treats: authentic Danish danish. Photo by Nellu Mazilu.

We headed over to the Amalienborg Palace to see the changing of the Royal Guard only to have Denmark’s Queen Margrethe II drive right past us.

Line also humored us, accompanying us on a  boat tour of the canals.

Nellu Mazilu, Nyhavn Canal, Copenhagen, Denmark

Nyhavn Canal. Photo by Nellu Mazilu

Our visit coincided with the first truly warm days of spring where everyone makes a point to be outside as much as possible just to soak it all in.

Copenhagen, Denmark, spring, sun, canal, Nellu Mazilu

People hanging out by the canal. Photo by Nellu Mazilu.

It was really just one of those stretches that makes you feel good to be alive.

Rockabilly – Oslo

After traveling extensively over the last two years via trains, plans, buses, boats, camels, etc., I feel confident in declaring the loveliest way to travel is by ferry. Ferries are comfortable, luxurious even. Many of them have free wifi. Need I say more?

ferry, Copenhagen to Oslo, Denmark, Norway

See ferries are so classy they have models of the boat on the boat.

We took the overnight DFDS Seaways ferry from Copenhagen to Oslo (thanks to help from the fantastic We booked one of the smaller, cheaper cabins: a room with two single beds and a bathroom. It was amazing. We had privacy. We could work, explore, sleep and most importantly shut out the rest of the boat for one peaceful evening.

We had gone to Oslo to meet up with our friend Morten, who we had met nine months earlier in Beijing. He and two friends had been preparing to drive back to Norway from China on two motorcycles with sidecars. They made it in about four months just before Christmas.

But over the few days we spent in Oslo, we’d learn that a lot went wrong. Their bikes broke down often. A bag with a passport (and an important visa) fell out. And it got very, very cold. (Read all about it on their blog “From East to West on an Iron Horse” with the help of Google Translate. They’ve also started working on the book about the trip.)

Morten let Nellu try on the gear he’d bought to stay warm. This included a wolf skin that looked way too close to the husky dog I had growing up.

Nellu Mazilu, wolf skin

Nellu and Morten pose with some of the items Morten collected across Asia.

“I can’t believe you guys are here,” Morten told Nellu when he called to schedule a time to meet up.

How best to describe Morten? Morten is the strong streak of creativity that runs through him. The word jovial (sorry Morten) also comes to mind. He and his friends had everyone in our hostel in Beijing entertained for nights with a song they’d made up at the airport. “Don’t leava your baggage unattendo,” was the bridge,  which they sang with faux-Jamaican accents. (There are several verses to this song. It’s really quite impressive.)

Morten is also talented photographer and actually won trip to New York a few months back for one of his pictures.

Morten in New York. Photo Courtesy of Morten Espeland.

Morten and the Big Apple. Photo Courtesy of Morten Espeland.

(When you click on any of the pictures on their Iron Horse blog, it will pull up a slide show of Morten’s work on the road. It’s worth checking out.)

We met Morten in downtown Oslo and he took to a place he referred to as a “rockabilly” bar.

“Rockabilly? What the hell is rockabilly?” we teased.

Apparently rockabilly is huge in Oslo and refers to places styled in that vintage diner look. (Wikipedia says the word is a combo of rock and hillbilly.)

We got beers as Morten pointed out all the Norwegian celebrities.

We spent time in Oslo doing a lot of the touristy stuff without Morten—visiting the boat museums like the Kon-Tiki museum and the Viking Ship museum. (It’s Norway. Boats are big there.)

Nellu Mazilu, Kon-Tiki, Oslo, Norway

Me & Kon-Tiki. Photo by Nellu Mazilu.

We also went to the Munch museum.

Edvard Munch,  Madonna, Edvard Munch Museum, Munch

Edvard Munch’s Madonna. Photo by Nellu.

With Morten, we spent time seeing a more nuanced Oslo. He took us for a walk along the river all the way down to Parliament.

Nellu Mazilu, Akerselva River, Oslo, Norway

Art along the Akerselva River, Oslo. Photo by Nellu Mazilu

He also explained why so many high-school aged kids were walking around with red or blue overalls.  (They’re Russ. It’s a fascinating tradition which I can best describe as a month-long Mardi Gras for high school seniors. But you can read all about it here.)

We were having too much fun chatting over beers at a bar called the “Last Train,” that we missed the last train that night to our apartment. We ended up roaming through Oslo in the middle of the night, fighting as people do when they’re lost and stranded in a foreign city, all the way back to Morten’s. He didn’t look a bit inconvenienced when we knocked on his door.

More to come…

~ Molly

Every time, I think of going on a safari in Africa, I get the Lion Sleeps Tonight stuck in my head – hence the title. I tried to get everyone to sing it with me while on safari, several times, but it never really took. In the spirit of this next blog, if you would like to get it stuck in your head too (or if you just need a good laugh), check out one of my favorite youtube renditions by clicking here.

Photo by Nellu

I’ve vowed to get a piece of video footage each day on this trip. My wide-angle zoom lens is not the best for safari, but you’d be amazed how close we were able to get to some of the animals. I’ll put it all together and reveal it at the end. But in the meantime, please enjoy Nellu’s photos.

Day 2

Day 2 starts before dawn. What seems like early now will become a regular starting time for us on our trek. To be honest, over the last year, Nellu and I have settled into a comfortable routine only getting up before 9am if the place that we’re staying stops serving breakfast. But on a high note, it seems like all the worrying over our bags was for naught. There is plenty of storage in our overland vehicle, which brings me to the subject of our overland vehicle. I think it looks like a cross between a truck and a bus.  But if we call it a bus, our driver Barry will, after two strikes of course, start collecting mandatory donations of $1 per offense.

Is it a boat? Is it bus? No it's an overland truck!

And what about the people? Nellu and I are the last to board the bu..truck so we’re sharing seats with different people. I sit myself next to Ken, the doctor from Orange County, and talk travel and healthcare reform, before we realize we have something even bigger in common – our love for HGTV and do-it-yourself renovations. Oh, I think we’ll get along just fine.

We’ve got our first game drive today. We drive several hours through Kruger National Park to our campsite for the night. Since we’re in our overland truck, which I’ve decided looks more like a boat than anything, we have to stick to the paved roads. But we still see tons of impalas, zebras, elephants, a giraffe, and warthogs, which are adorable. 

Photo by Nellu

It’s funny to get so giddy and to see other equally grown adults get so giddy over wild animals.

Impalas everywhere! They call these guys the McDonald's of the bush. Photo by Nellu

Once in camp, we get a brief tent tutorial. These tents look pretty easy to set up. And even better, we have thick foam mats to sleep on. This camping for 21 of the 28 days thing is not going to be so bad.

Day 3

Another early morning but today we’re going on a real safari! Two smaller jeeps, just like the ones you imagine when you think safari, meet us at the campsite to take us back out into the wild of Kruger National Park.  We hope we’re early enough to catch some big cats on the prowl for breakfast.

It soon becomes clear that yesterday’s game drive was just a taste. In the smaller jeeps, we’re able to drive along dirt roads, getting up close to many of the animals. One of our first grand encounters, a male elephant coming right down the road.

Now, you’re allowed to drive around Kruger in your every day car from a mini to a sedan, as long as you pay the entrance fee at the gate. But it’s situations like that make me glad we’re in a big jeep, driven by trained professionals, unlike the group of people in a car small enough to be a Prius who backed up and quickly left the scene. We got to stick around and enjoy.

Elephants up close. Photo by Nellu

By lunch time, we had seen three of the big 5 – the big 5 most dangerous animals to hunt on foot (not that there would be any hunting going on): rhinos, buffaloes, and elephants.

Rhinos are being poached at an alarming rate just for their horns. We were able to see these two in the wild. More information to come. Photo by Nellu

We actually saw a big herd of elephants, complete with a few babies. And if you thought a car full of adults getting all giddy over animals was funny, you should see this car full of adults get all giddy over BABY animals. They’re everywhere in Kruger in January.

Photo by Nellu

As we ooh and aahh over the babies, I’m reminded of an idea that has started to germinate in my head over the last year – the importance of conservation. Seeing such amazing exotic animals out in the wild furthers a belief that we need to treasure these animals and protect them. Especially when it comes to animals like elephants and rhinos that are being poached at alarming rates for their tusks or horns, respectively. And even the not so endangered kind like zebras. Kruger National Park has zebras just hanging out everywhere the way New York City has rats and we need to make sure they’re here for generations to come.

Photo by Nellu - Check out more of his beautiful pics

After lunch, we take off and drive some more but it’s so hot out now you can see the herds of animals standing closely together in the shade offered by trees. It’s quite comical. But the likelihood of us seeing a big cat in this kind of sun steadily decreases. Our jeep starts joking around about an elaborate plot/marketing ploy for Kruger Park. We think what they really need to do is get a stuffed lion and stick it underneath a tree at a distance far enough away from the road where people won’t know the difference. It will of course have to be close enough so that all the tourists can snap their pictures and go home telling everyone that they saw a lion.

Some times you see the lion and sometimes you see a giraffe. Photo by Nellu

Oh and I almost forgot, there were no tents for us on Day 3. We were treated to simple bungalows with ensuite bathrooms! The staff at the guesthouse also performed traditional songs and dances for us. They chose participants from the audience and of course they chose Nellu. He just has that look in his eye that says, “I’m game.”

More to come…

~ Molly

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